The Watchlist: up to £3000

Redefining ‘discreet', and defying fashion, the Ahoi provides a made-in-house movement, a dressy case that's still water-resistant and Bauhaus clarity.

£2,600; nomos-glashuette.com

Inspired by the Mallorcan car rally once attempted by the TopGear telly boys, this magnificent chronograph displays seconds with a thermometer-type red bar.

£2,650; oris.ch

While best known for more complicated chronographs, British brand Bremont also has this time-only model, harking back to classic pilots' watches of the Fifties.

£2,750; bremont.com

Available in black, but with a choice of colour accents, the Ebel 100 is a super-chic sport/dress watch for those who think bling is for children. This is pure stealth.

£2,200; ebel.com

Its designers wanted max legibility. Hence the huge numerals, massive hands and bezel. This is proper, no-nonsense German style.

£2,460; pageandcooper.com

Defying the curse of fashion-brand watches, Ralph Lauren quickly established itself with some serious models, like this military/vintage/rustic-themed chronometer.

£2,150; ralphlaurenwatches.com

Recalling the watches that launched the line more than 40 years ago, the new range includes this, named after the iconic engine layout.

£2,310; PORSCHE-DESIGN.COM

This tough-as-nails working instrument features a shock-resistance system, anti-magnetism and gas-filled tubes for luminosity.

£2,640; ballwatch.com